Vivienne vest part deux

I entered this vest in CraftStylish's Fall Fashion Challenge for designer-inspired autumn garments and am thrilled to be chosen as a finalist! Check out all the entries and vote for your favorite (extra awesome if it happens to be mine, but there is stiff competition).


I know, lowly contest monger here. I innocently happened across the contest and couldn't help but enter. Really, how could I not? :)

I was asked about the top of the vest, which wasn't clear from the photos. There aren't cups in the vest as it appears, rather there are folds of fabric at the top.


It's unlike anything I've ever sewn, but really cool, and, hopefully, flattering to wear.

Viva las Viviennes!

Vogue 8385 (OOP)

The vest is a dead ringer for this Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Atlantis Sunday top:

This must be one of her best sellers because the design has been around for several years, and it is still being made.

If you can't sew or have an extra $500, you're in luck. Antrhopologie knocked it off too:

Fabric:
-cotton/rayon plaid shirting, Hancock Fabrics (got it recently)
-green stretch cotton twill, FashionFabricsClub.com

Design changes:

Both versions:
-slightly deepened armholes (the original pattern has them too high for comfort; I traced along the next smallest size at the armhole)
-back neckline gaping fixed by removing 3/4 inch from the top and tapering to nothing at the waistline
-extra bust room by adding width to the front bodice side seam (traced a size 12 here, then tapered back to an 8). There is still some pulling at the front bustline, but I consider this minor (and still it fits as well as any of the model shots of the Vivienne Westwood originals).

Plaid:
-self-drafted peplum pattern more closely resembles designer original (though mine is symmetrical)
-changed the front angle of the peplum for more abdomen coverage

Green:
-lengthened bodice along marked pattern lines by one inch, thinking that would help cover a patch of exposed belly in the front. The extra length brought the waistline too far down in the back and now there are horizontal wrinkles from too much back length.

Likes:
-unique silhouette
-beautifully drafted
-well-written instructions make clear otherwise strange construction
-inside is completely finished, looks professional
-versatile, worn alone or over long sleeves

Dislikes:
-requires precise sewing, make sure you transfer markings accurately
-odd shaped pattern pieces make fit alterations tricky
-calls for lining in fashion fabric, but it doesn't show so you can use what you like
-exposed patch of tummy

Overall, this is a really great pattern for intermediate sewers.

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Still reading? Here are some tips and tools that were helpful for this vest:

Matching plaids from The Spadea Sewing Book:

Sewing corners (this pattern has both inward and outward corners) from Reader's Digest New Complete Guide to Sewing:

You should "blunt" any corners you want to be sharp. Seems counter intuitive, but if you don't sew a few stitches diagonally across a corner, it won't make a fine point.

Steel chisel buttonhole cutter for accurate and clean buttonholes:

Lastly, here's the peplum I drafted for a size 8. It includes 5/8 inch seam and hem allowances. Note: it is not drawn to scale:

How to Clone Yourself in Photos

Recently I started posting images like this, and you might be wondering how you can do it:



Besides a digital camera, you will need a tripod and photo editing software. I use Adobe Photoshop, but you can also use a free online photo editor, such as Pixlr.

Take your images with the tripod as stable as you can make it (tighten all the knobs and try not to move it when pressing the shutter). Remember, the only thing that changes between images should be you. My camera has a flip around screen that helps me judge where I am in the frame. You can also use reference points to make sure you don't step outside the photo frame (I used my radiator and lamp in the top photo, for example).

There are two different editing approaches, depending on your skill level:

Easy method: As long as your body doesn't overlap in any of the photos, make a box around yourself in the second image with the marquee/dashed box tool, copy, then paste it into the first image. Move this pasted portion around until the background lines up seamlessly. I like to zoom in on one area when lining up the images and make fine movements with the arrows on my keyboard. I used this method for the brick wall image above. It was quick, but you can see the seams on the cement at the bottom.

More accurate method: If your body overlaps (or you have shadows, etc.), you can use this tutorial. It will be time consuming if you aren't familiar with the features of Photoshop. If you are confused, google it; there are a lot of Photoshop instructions and tutorials on the web. This is the method that I used in the top photo.

Good luck!